第37章

IturnedseawardunderthedeadcraterknownasDiamondHead。Mywaywasforsometimeundertheshadeofcertainthicketsofgreen，thornytrees，dottedwithhouses。HereI

enjoyedsomepicturesofthenativelife：wide-eyed，nakedchildren，mingledwithpigs；ayouthasleepunderatree；anoldgentlemanspellingthroughglasseshisHawaiianBible；thesomewhatembarrassingspectacleofaladyatherbathinaspring；andtheglimpseofgaudy-colouredgownsinthedeepshadeofthehouses。ThenceIfoundaroadalongthebeachitself，wadinginsand，opposedandbuffetedbythewholeweightoftheTrade：ononehand，theglitteringandsoundingsurf，andthebaylivelywithmanysails；ontheother，precipitous，aridgulliesandsheercliffs，mountingtowardsthecraterandthebluesky。Forallthecompanionshipofskimmingvessels，theplacestruckmewithasenseofsolitude。

TherecameinmyheadwhatIhadbeentoldthedaybeforeatdinner，ofacavernaboveinthebowelsofthevolcano，aplaceonlytobevisitedwiththelightoftorches，atreasure-houseofthebonesofpriestsandwarriors，andclamorouswiththevoiceofanunseenriverpouringseawardthroughthecranniesofthemountain。Atthethought，itwasrevealedtomesuddenly，howthebungalows，andtheFowlers，andthebrightbusytownandcrowdingships，wereallchildrenofyesterday；andforcenturiesbefore，theobscurelifeofthenatives，withitsgloriesandambitions，itsjoysandcrimesandagonies，hadrolledunseen，likethemountainriver，inthatsea-girtplace。NotChaldeaappearedmoreancient，northePyramidsofEgyptmoreabstruse；andIheardtimemeasuredby“thedrumsandtramplings“ofimmemorialconquests，andsawmyselfthecreatureofanhour。OverthebankruptcyofPinkertonandDodd，ofMontanaBlock，S。F。，andtheconscientioustroublesofthejuniorpartner，thespiritofeternitywasseentosmile。

Tothismoodofphilosophicsadness，myexcessesofthenightbeforenodoubtcontributed；formorethingsthanvirtueareattimestheirownreward：butIwasgreatlyhealedatleastofmydistresses。AndwhileIwasyetenjoyingmyabstractedhumour，aturnofthebeachbroughtmeinviewofthesignal-station，withitswatch-houseandflag-staff，perchedontheimmediatemarginofacliff。Thehousewasnewandcleanandbald，andstoodnakedtotheTrades。Thewindbeataboutitinloudsqualls；theseawardwindowsrattledwithoutmercy；

thebreachofthesurfbelowcontributeditsincrementofnoise；

andthefallofmyfootinthenarrowverandahpassedunheardbythosewithin。

ThereweretwoonwhomIthusenteredunexpectedly：thelook-outman，withgrizzledbeard，keenseaman’seyes，andthatbrandonhiscountenancethatcomesofsolitaryliving；andavisitor，anoldish，oratoricalfellow，inthesmarttropicalarrayoftheBritishman-o’-war’sman，perchedonatable，andsmokingacigar。Iwasmadepleasantlywelcome，andwassoonlisteningwithamusementtothesea-lawyer。

“No，ifIhadn’thavebeenbornanEnglishman。”wasoneofhissentiments，“damnme！I’drather’abeenbornaFrenchy！I’dliketoseeanothernationfittoblacktheirboots。”Presentlyafter，hedevelopedhisviewsonhomepoliticswithsimilartrenchancy。“I’dratherbeabrutebeastthanwhatI’dbealiberal。”hesaid。“Carryingbannersandthat！apig’sgotmoresense。Why，lookatourchiefengineer——theydosayhecarriedabannerwithhisown’ands：“HooroarforGladstone！”I

suppose，or“DownwiththeAristocracy！”What’armdoesthearistocracydo？Showmeacountryanygoodwithoutone！NottheStates；why，it’sthe’omeofcorruption！Iknewaman——hewasagoodman，’omeborn——whowassignalquartermasterintheWyandotte。Hetoldmehecouldneverhavegotthereifhehadn’thave’runwiththeboys’——tolditmeasI’mtellingyou。

Now，we’reallBritishsubjectshere——“hewasgoingon。

“IamafraidIamanAmerican。”Isaidapologetically。

Heseemedtheleastbittakenaback，butrecoveredhimself；andwiththereadytactofhisbetters，paidmetheusualBritishcomplimentontheriposte。“Youdon’tsayso！”heexclaimed。

“Well，Igiveyoumywordofhonour，I’dneverhaveguessedit。

Nobodycouldtellitonyou。”saidhe，asthoughitweresomeformofliquor。

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