A Popular Account

第25章

Guinea-fowlabounded,butnograincouldbepurchased,forthepeoplehadcultivatedonlytheholmesalongthebankswithmaizeandpumpkins。Timeenoughhadnotelapsedsincetheslave-trader\'sinvasion,anddestructionoftheirstores,forthemtoraisecropsofgrainontheadjacentlands。Todealwiththemforafewheadsofmaizewasthehungrybargainingwiththefamished,sowehastenedonsouthwardsasfastastheexcessiveheatwouldallowus。Itwasimpossibletomarchinthemiddleoftheday,theheatwassointolerable;andwecouldnotgoonatnight,because,ifwehadchancedtomeetanyoftheinhabitants,weshouldhavebeentakenformarauders。

Wehadnowthundereveryafternoon;butwhileoccasionalshowersseemedtofallatdifferentparts,nonefellonus。Theairwasdeliciouslyclear,andrevealedallthelandscapecoveredeverywherewithforest,andboundedbybeautifulmountains。Onthe31stOctoberwereachedtheMukuru-Madse,afterhavingtravelled660geographicalmiles,or760Englishmilesinastraightline。Thiswasaccomplishedinfifty-fivetravellingdays,twelvemilesperdiemonanaverage。Ifthenumerousbendingsandwindings,andupsanddownsofthepathscouldhavebeenmeasuredtoo,thedistancewouldhavebeenfoundatleastfifteenmilesaday。

ThenightwesleptattheMukuru-Madseitthunderedheavily,but,asthishadbeenthecaseeveryafternoon,andnorainhadfollowed,weerectednoshelter,butduringthisnightapouringraincameon。

Whenverytiredamanfeelsdeterminedtosleepinspiteofeverything,andthesoundofdroppingwaterissaidtobeconducivetoslumber,butthatdoesnotrefertoanAfricanstorm。If,whenhalfasleepinspiteofaheavyshoweronthebackofthehead,heunconsciouslyturnsonhisside,thedropsfromthebranchesmakesuchcapitalshotsintohisear,thatthebrainringsagain。

Wewereoffnextmorning,the1stofNovember,assoonasthedaydawned。Inwalkingaboutsevenmilestotheship,ourclotheswerethoroughlydriedbythehotsun,andanattackoffeverfollowed。Werelatethislittleincidenttopointoutthealmostcertainconsequenceofgettingwetinthisclimate,andallowingtheclothestodryontheperson。Evenifwewalkinthemorningswhenthedewisonthegrass,andonlygetourfeetandlegswet,averyuneasyfeelingandpartialfeverwithpainsinthelimbsensue,andcontinuetillthemarchonwardsbathestheminperspiration。HadBishopMackenziebeenawareofthis,which,beforeexperiencealonehadtaughtus,entailedmanyaseverelesson,weknownoearthlyreasonwhyhisvaluablelifemightnothavebeenspared。ThedifferencebetweengettingtheclothessoakedinEnglandandinAfricaisthis:

inthecoldclimatethepatientiscompelled,or,atanyrate,warned,bydiscomforttoresortatoncetoachangeofraiment;whileinAfricaitiscoolingandratherpleasanttoallowtheclothestodryontheperson。AMissionaryinproportionashepossessesanathleticframe,hardenedbymanlyexercises,inadditiontohisotherqualifications,willexcelhimwhoisnotfavouredwithsuchbodilyendowments;butinahotclimateefficiencymainlydependsonhusbandingtheresources。Hemustneverforgetthat,inthetropics,heisanexoticplant。

CHAPTERXV。

Confidenceofnatives——BishopTozer——WithdrawaloftheMissionparty——

TheEnglishleave——HazardousvoyagetoMosambique——Dr。Livingstone\'svoyagetoBombay——ReturntoEngland。

Weweredelightedandthankfultofindallthoseleftattheshipingoodhealth,andthatfromtheemploymentsinwhichtheyhadbeenoccupiedtheyhadsufferedlessfromfeverthanusualduringourabsence。Mycompanion,ThomasWard,thesteward,afterhavingperformedhispartinthemarchrightbravely,rejoinedhiscomradesstrongerthanhehadeverbeenbefore。

AnAjawachief,namedKapeni,hadsomuchconfidenceintheEnglishnamethathe,withmostofhispeople,visitedtheship;andassertedthatnothingwouldgivehiscountrymengreaterpleasurethantoreceivetheassociatesofBishopMackenzieastheirteachers。Thisdeclaration,coupledwiththesubsequentconductoftheAjawa,wasverygratifying,inasmuchasitwasclearthatnoumbragehadbeentakenatthecheckwhichtheBishophadgiventotheirslaving;theirconscienceshadtoldthemthatthecoursehehadpursuedwasright。

Whenwereturned,thecontrastbetweenthevegetationaboutMuazi\'sandthatneartheshipwasverystriking。Wehadcomesoquicklydown,thatwhileontheplateauinlatitude12degreesS。,theyoungleaveshadinmanycasespassedfromthepinkorothercolourtheyhaveonfirstcomingouttothelightfreshgreenwhichsucceedsit,here,onthebordersof16degreesS。,orfrom150to180milesdistant,thetreeswerestillbare,thegreycolourofthebarkpredominatingovereveryotherhue。Thetreesinthetropicsherehaveaverywell-markedannualrest。OntheRovumaeven,whichisonlyabouttendegreesfromtheequator,inSeptembertheslopesupfromtheriversomesixtymilesinlandwereofalightashy-greycolour;andonascendingthem,wefoundthatthemajorityofthetreeswerewithoutleaves;thoseofthebambooevenlaycrispandcrumpledontheground。Asthesunisusuallyhotbyday,eveninthewinter,thiswitheringprocessmaybeowingtothecoolnights;

AfricadifferingsomuchfromCentralIndiainthefactthat,inAfrica,howeverhotthedaymaybe,theairgenerallycoolsdownsufficientlybytheearlymorningwatchestorenderacoveringorevenablanketagreeable。

Thefirstfortnightafterourreturntotheshipwasemployedinthedelightfulprocessofresting,toappreciatewhichamanmusthavegonethroughgreatexertions。Inourcasethemusclesofthelimbswereashardasboards,andnotanounceoffatexistedonanypartofthebody。Wenowhadfrequentshowers;but,thesebeingonlytheearlierrains,theresultontheriseoftheriverwasbutafewinches。Theeffectoftheserainsonthesurroundingscenerywasbeautifulintheextreme。Alltraceofthedryseasonwassoonobliterated,andhillsandmountainsfrombasetosummitwerecoveredwithamantleoflivinggreen。Thesunpassedusonhiswaysouthwithoutcausingaflood,soallourhopesofareleasewerecentredonhisreturntowardstheEquator,when,asarule,thewatersofinundationaremadetoflow。Uptothistimetherainsdescendedsimplytowatertheearth,fillthepools,andmakereadyforthegrandoverflowforwhichwehadstilltowaitsixweeks。Itisofnousetoconcealthatwewaitedwithmuchchagrin;forhadwenotbeenforcedtoreturnfromthehighlandswestofNyassawemighthavevisitedLakeBemba;butunavailingregretsarepooremploymentforthemind;sowebanishedthemtothebestofourpower。

AboutthemiddleofDecember,1863,wewereinformedthatBishopMackenzie\'ssuccessor,afterspendingafewmonthsonthetopofamountainaboutashighasBenNevisinScotland,atthemouthoftheShire,wheretherewerefewornopeopletobetaught,haddeterminedtoleavethecountry。ThisunfortunatedecisionwascommunicatedtousatthesametimethatsixoftheboysrearedbyBishopMackenzieweresentbackintoheathenism。Theboysweretakentoaplaceaboutsevenmilesfromtheship,butimmediatelyfoundtheirwayuptous。

Wetoldthemthatiftheywishedtoremaininthecountrytheyhadbettersoarrangeatonce,forweweresoontoleave。Thesequelwillshowtheirchoice。

AssoonasthedeathofBishopMackenziewasknownattheCape,Dr。

Gray,theexcellentBishopthere,proceededatoncetoEngland,withaviewofsecuringanearlyappointmentofanotherheadtotheMission,whichinitsoriginowedsomuchtohiszealforthespreadofthegospelamongtheheathen,andwhoseinterestshehadcontinuallyatheart。Aboutthemiddleof1862weheardthatDr。

Gray\'seffortshadbeensuccessful,andthatanotherclergymanwouldsoontaketheplaceofourdepartedfriend。ThispleasingintelligencewasexceedinglycheeringtotheMissionaries,andgratifyingalsotothemembersoftheExpedition。Aboutthebeginningof1863thenewBishoparrivedatthemouthoftheriverinaman-of-war,andaftersomedelayproceededinland。TheBishopoftheCapehadtakenavoyagehomeatconsiderableinconveniencetohimself,forthesoleobjectofpromotingthisMissiontotheheathen;anditwassomehowexpectedthatthemanhewouldsecurewouldbeanimageofhimself;andwemustsay,thatwhateverothers,fromtherepresentationsthathavegoneabroad,maythinkofhischaracter,weinvariablyfoundDr。Graytobeatrue,warm-heartedpromoterofthewelfareofhisfellow-men;amanwhosecourageandzealhaveprovokedverymanytogoodworks。

ItwashopedthatthepresenceofanewheadtotheMissionwouldinfusenewenergyandlifeintothesmallbandofMissionaries,whoserankshadbeenthinnedbydeath;andwho,thoughdiscouragedbythedisasterswhichtheslavewarandfaminehadinduced,andalsodispiritedbythedepressinginfluencesofalowandunhealthypositionintheswampyShireValley,wereyetbravelyholdingouttillthemuch-neededmoralandmaterialaidshouldarrive。

WebelievethatweareutteringthesentimentsofmanydevoutmembersofdifferentsectionsofChristians,whenwesay,itwasapitythattheMissionoftheUniversitieswasabandoned。Thegroundhadbeenconsecratedinthetruestsensebythelivesofthosebravemenwhofirstoccupiedit。InbarejusticetoBishopMackenzie,whowasthefirsttofall,itmustbesaid,thattherepudiationofallhehaddone,andthesuddenabandonmentofallthathadcostsomuchlifeandmoneytosecure,wasaseriouslineofconductforonesounversedinMissionaryoperationsashissuccessor,toinaugurate。

ItwouldhavebeennomorethanfairthatBishopTozer,beforewindinguptheaffairsoftheMission,shouldactuallyhaveexaminedthehighlandsoftheUpperShire;hewouldthushavegratifiedtheassociatesofhispredecessor,whobelievedthatthehighlandshadneverhadafairtrial,andhewouldhavegainedfrompersonalobservationamoreaccurateknowledgeofthecountryandthepeoplethanhecouldpossiblyhavebecomepossessedofbyinformationgatheredchieflyonthecoast。Withthisexamination,ratherthanwithastayofafewmonthsonthehumid,drippingtopofmistyMorambala,weshouldhavefeltmuchmoresatisfied。

InJanuary,1864,thenativesallconfident

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