第20章

WeenteredtheZambesiabouttheendofNovemberandfounditunusuallylow，sowedidnotgetuptoShupangatillthe19thofDecember。ThefriendsofourMazaromen，whohadnowbecomegoodsailorsandveryattentiveservants，turnedoutandgavethemaheartywelcomebackfromtheperilsofthesea:theyhadbeguntofearthattheywouldneverreturn。Wehiredthematasixteen-yardpieceofclothamonth——abouttenshillings\'worth，thePortuguesemarket-priceoftheclothbeingthensevenpencehalfpennyayard，——

andpaidthemfivepieceseach，forfour-and-a-halfmonths\'work。A

merchantatthesametimepaidotherMazaromenthreepiecesforsevenmonths，andtheywerewithhimintheinterior。Ifthemerchantsdonotprosper，itisnotbecauselabourisdear，butbecauseitisscarce，andbecausetheyaresoeageroneveryoccasiontoselltheworkmenoutofthecountry。Ourmenhadalsoreceivedquantitiesofgoodclothesfromthesailorsofthe"Pioneer"andofthe"Orestes，"andwerenowregardedbytheirneighboursandbythemselvesasmenofimportance。Neverbeforehadtheypossessedsomuchwealth:theybelievedthattheymightsettleinlife，beingnowofsufficientstandingtowarranttheirenteringthemarriedstate；

andawifeandahutwereamongtheirfirstinvestments。Sixteenyardswerepaidtothewife\'sparents，andahutcostfouryards。Weshouldhavelikedtohavekeptthemintheship，fortheywerewell-

behavedandhadlearnedagreatdealoftheworkrequired。Thoughtheywouldnotthemselvesgoagain，theyengagedothersforus；andbroughttwiceasmanyaswecouldtake，oftheirbrothersandcousins，whowereeagertojointheshipandgowithusuptheShire，oranywhereelse。Theyallagreedtotakehalf-payuntiltheytoohadlearnedtowork；andwefoundnoscarcityoflabour，thoughallthatcouldbeexportedisnowoutofthecountry。

TherehadbeenadroughtofunusualseverityduringthepastseasoninthecountrybetweenLupataandKebrabasa，andithadextendednorth-easttotheManganjahighlands。AlltheTetteslaves，exceptaveryfewhouseholdones，hadbeendrivenawaybyhunger，andwerenowfaroffinthewoods，andwhereverwildfruit，ortheprospectofobtaininganythingwhatevertokeepthebreathoflifeinthem，wastobefound。Theirmastersweresaidnevertoexpecttoseethemagain。TherehavebeentwoyearsofgreathungeratTettesincewehavebeeninthecountry，andafaminelikethepresentprevailedin1854，whenthousandsdiedofstarvation。IfmenliketheCapefarmersownedthiscountry，theirenergyandenterprisewouldsoonrenderthecropsindependentofrain。Therebeingplentyofslopeorfall，thelandcouldbeeasilyirrigatedfromtheZambesianditstributarystreams。APortuguesecolonycanneverprosper:itisusedasapenalsettlement，andeverythingmustbedonemilitaryfashion。"WhatdoIcareforthiscountry？"saidthemostenterprisingoftheTettemerchants，"allIwantistomakemoneyassoonpossible，andthengotoBombayandenjoyit。”AllbusinessatTettewasnowsuspended。Carrierscouldnotbefoundtotakethegoodsintotheinterior，andthemerchantscouldbarelyobtainfoodfortheirownfamilies。AtMazaromorerainhadfallen，andatolerablecropfollowed。ThepeopleofShupangawerecollectinganddryingdifferentwildfruits，nearlyallofwhicharefarfrompalatabletoaEuropeantaste。Therootofasmallcreepercalled"bise"isdugupandeaten。Inappearanceitisnotunlikethesmallwhitesweetpotato，andhasalittleoftheflavourofourpotato。

Itwouldbeverygood，ifitwereonlyalittlelarger。Fromanothertuber，called"ulanga，"verygoodstarchcanbemade。AfewmilesfromShupangathereisanabundanceoflargegame，butthepeoplehere，thoughfondenoughofmeat，arenotahuntingrace，andseldomkillany。

TheShirehavingrisen，westeamedoffonthe10thofJanuary，1863，withthe"LadyNyassa"intow。ItwasnotlongbeforewecameupontheravagesofthenotoriousMariano。Thesurvivorsofasmallhamlet，atthefootofMorambala，wereinastateofstarvation，havinglosttheirfoodbyoneofhismaraudingparties。Thewomenwereinthefieldscollectinginsects，roots，wildfruits，andwhatevercouldbeeaten，inordertodragontheirlives，ifpossible，tillthenextcropshouldberipe。Twocanoespassedus，thathadbeenrobbedbyMariano\'sbandofeverythingtheyhadinthem；theownersweregatheringpalm-nutsfortheirsubsistence。

Theyworepalm-leafaprons，astherobbershadstrippedthemoftheirclothingandornaments。Deadbodiesfloatedpastusdaily，andinthemorningsthepaddleshadtobeclearedofcorpses，caughtbythefloatsduringthenight。ForscoresofmilestheentirepopulationofthevalleywassweptawaybythisscourgeMariano，whoisagain，ashewasbefore，thegreatPortugueseslave-agent。Itmadetheheartachetoseethewidespreaddesolation；theriver-banks，oncesopopulous，allsilent；thevillagesburneddown，andanoppressivestillnessreigningwhereformerlycrowdsofeagersellersappearedwiththevariousproductsoftheirindustry。Hereandtheremightbeseenonthebankasmalldrearydesertedshed，wherehadsat，dayafterday，astarvingfisherman，untiltherisingwatersdrovethefishfromtheirwontedhaunts，andlefthimtodie。Tinganehadbeendefeated；hispeoplehadbeenkilled，kidnapped，andforcedtofleefromtheirvillages。TherewereafewwretchedsurvivorsinavillageabovetheRuo；butthemajorityofthepopulationwasdead。

Thesightandsmellofdeadbodieswaseverywhere。Manyskeletonslaybesidethepath，whereintheirweaknesstheyhadfallenandexpired。Ghastlylivingformsofboysandgirls，withdulldeadeyes，werecrouchingbesidesomeofthehuts。Afewmoremiserabledaysoftheirterriblehunger，andtheywouldbewiththedead。

Oppressedwiththeshockingscenesaround，wevisitedtheBishop\'sgrave；andthoughitmatterslittlewhereagoodChristian\'sashesrest，yetitwaswithsadnessthatwethoughtoverthehopeswhichhadclusteredaroundhim，ashelefttheclassicgroundsofCambridge，allnowburiedinthiswildplace。Howitwouldhavetornhiskindlyhearttowitnessthesightswenowwereforcedtosee!

Ingivingventtothenaturalfeelingsofregret，thatamansoeminentlyendowedandlearned，aswasBishopMackenzie，shouldhavebeensosooncutoff，somehaveexpressedanopinionthatitwaswrongtouseaninstrumentsovaluableMERELYtoconverttheheathen。

Iftheattemptistobemadeatall，itis"pennywiseandpoundfoolish"toemployanybuttheverybestmen，andthosewhoarespeciallyeducatedforthework。Anordinaryclergyman，howeverwellsuitedforaparish，willnot，withoutspecialtraining，makeaMissionary；andastotheircomparativeusefulness，itislikethatofthemanwhobuildsanhospital，ascomparedwiththatofthesurgeonwhoinafteryearsonlyadministersforatimetheremedieswhichthefounderhadprovidedinperpetuity。HadtheBishopsucceededinintroducingChristianity，hisconvertsmighthavebeenfew，buttheywouldhaveformedacontinuousrollforalltimetocome。

TheShirefelltwofeet，beforewereachedtheshallowcrossingwherewehadformerlysuchdifficulty，andwehadnowtwoshipstotakeup。

Ahippopotamuswasshottwomilesaboveabankonwhichtheshiplayafortnight:itfloatedinthreehours。Astheboatwastowingitdown，thecrocodileswereattractedbythedeadbeast，andseveralshotshadtobefiredtokeepthemoff。Thebullethadnotenteredthebrainoftheanimal，butdrivenasplinterofboneintoit。A

littlemoisturewithsomegasissuedfromthewound，andthiswasallthatcouldtellthecrocodilesdownthestreamofadeadhippopotamus；andyettheycameupfrommilesbelow。Theirsenseofsmellmustbeasacuteastheirhearing；botharequiteextraordinary。Dozensfedonthemeatweleft。OurKrooman，Jumbo，usedtoassertthatthecrocodilenevereatsfreshmeat，butalwayskeepsittillitishighandtender——andthestrongeritsmellsthebetterhelikesit。Thereseemstobesometruthinthis。Theycanswallowbutsmallpiecesatatime，andfinditdifficulttotearfreshmeat。Intheactofswallowing，whichislikethatofadog，theheadisraisedoutofthewater。Wetriedtocatchsome，andonewassoonhooked；itrequiredhalf-a-dozenhandstohaulhimuptheriver，andtheshark-hookstraightened，andhegotaway。Alargeironhookwasnextmade，but，asthecreaturescouldnotswallowit，theirjawssoonpresseditstraight——andourcrocodile-fishingwasafailure。Asonemightexpect，——fromthepowerevenofasalmon——thetugofacrocodilewasterriblystrong。

Thecorpseofaboyfloatedpasttheship；amonstrouscrocodilerushedatitwiththespeedofagreyhound，caughtitandshookit，asaterrierdogdoesarat。Othersdashedattheprey，eachwithhispowerfultailcausingthewatertochurnandfroth，ashefuriouslytoreoffapiece。Inafewsecondsitwasallgone。Thesightwasfrightfultobehold。TheShireswarmedwithcrocodiles；wecountedsixty-sevenoftheserepulsivereptilesonasinglebank，buttheyarenotasfierceastheyareinsomerivers。"Crocodiles，"

saysCaptainTuckey，"aresoplentifulintheCongo，neartherapids，andsofrequentlycarryoffthewomen，whoatdaylightgodowntotheriverforwater，that，whiletheyarefillingtheircalabashes，oneofthepartyisusuallyemployedinthrowinglargestonesintothewateroutside。”Here，eitheracalabashonalongpoleisusedindrawingwater，orafenceisplanted。Thenativeseatthecrocodile，buttoustheideaoftastingthemusky-scented，fishy-lookingfleshcarriedtheideaofcannibalism。Humboldtremarks，thatinSouthAmericathealligatorsofsomeriversaremoredangerousthaninothers。Alligatorsdifferfromcrocodilesinthefourthorcaninetoothgoingintoaholeorsocketintheupperjaw，whileinthecrocodileitfitsintoanotch。Theforefootofthecrocodilehasfivetoesnotwebbed，thehindfoothasfourtoeswhicharewebbed；inthealligatorthewebisaltogetherwanting。Theyaresomuchalikethattheywouldnodoubtbreedtogether。

Oneofthecrocodileswhichwasshothadapiecesnappedofftheendofhistail，anotherhadlostaforefootinfighting；wesawactualleechesbetweentheteeth，suchasarementionedbyHerodotus，butweneverwitnessedtheploverpickingthemout。Theirgreaterfiercenessinonepartofthecountrythananotherisdoubtlessowingtoascarcityoffish；infact，CaptainTuckeysays，ofthatpartoftheCongo，mentionedabove，"Therearenofishherebutcatfish，"andwefoundthatthelakecrocodiles，livinginclearwater，andwithplentyoffish，scarcelyeverattackedman。TheShireteemswithfishofmanydifferentkinds。Theonlytime，asalreadyremarked，whenitscrocodilesareparticularlytobedreaded，iswhentheriverisinflood。Thenthefisharedrivenfromtheirusualhaunts，andnogamecomesdowntotherivertodrink，waterbeingabundantinpoolsinland。Hungernowimpelsthecrocodiletolieinwaitforthewomenwhocometodrawwater，andontheZambesinumbersarecarriedoffeveryyear。Thedangerisnotsogreatatotherseasons；thoughitisneversafetobathe，ortostooptodrink，whereonecannotseethebottom，especiallyintheevening。OneoftheMakololorandownintheduskoftheriver；and，ashewasbusytossingthewatertohismouthwithhishand，inthemannerpeculiartothenatives，acrocodilerosesuddenlyfromthebottom，andcaughthimbythehand。

Thelimbofatreewasfortunatelywithinreach，andhehadpresenceofmindtolayholdofit。Bothtuggedandpulled；thecrocodileforhisdinner，andthemanfordearlife。Foratimeitappeareddoubtfulwhetheradinneroralifewastobesacrificed；butthemanheldon，andthemonsterletthehandgo，leavingthedeepmarksofhisuglyteethinit。

Duringourdetention，inexpectationofthepermanentriseoftheriverinMarch，Dr。KirkandMr。C。Livingstonecollectednumbersofthewading-birdsofthemarshes——andmadepleasantadditionstooursaltedprovisions，ingeese，ducks，andhippopotamusflesh。Oneofthecomborknob-nosedgeese，onbeingstrangledinordertohaveitsskinpreservedwithoutinjury，continuedtobreatheaudiblybythebrokenhumerus，orwing-bone，andothermeanshadtobeadoptedtoputitoutofpain。Thiswasasifamanonthegallowsweretocontinuetobreathebyabrokenarmbone，andaffordedusanillustrationofthefact，thatinbirds，thevitalairpenetrateseverypartoftheinterioroftheirbodies。Thebreathpassesthroughandroundaboutthelungs——bathesthesurfacesoftheviscera，andentersthecavitiesofthebones；itevenpenetratesintosomespacesbetweenthemusclesoftheneck——andthusnotonlyisthemostperfectoxygenationofthebloodsecured，but，thetemperatureofthebloodbeingveryhigh，theairineverypartisrarefied，andthegreatlightnessandvigourprovidedfor，thatthehabitsofbirdsrequire。SeveralbirdswerefoundbyDr。Kirktohavemarrowinthetibiae，thoughthesebonesaregenerallydescribedashollow。

DuringtheperiodofourdetentionontheshallowpartoftheriverinMarch，Mr。ThorntoncameuptousfromShupanga:hehad，asbeforenarrated，lefttheExpeditionin1859，andjoinedBaronvanderDecken，inthejourneytoKilimanjaro，when，byanascentofthemountaintotheheightof8000feet，itwasfirstprovedtobecoveredwithperpetualsnow，andthepreviousinformationrespectingit，givenbytheChurchofEnglandMissionaries，KrapfandRebman，confirmed。ItisnowwellknownthattheBaronsubsequentlyascendedtheKilimanjaroto14，000feet，andascertaineditshighestpeaktobeatleast20，000feetabovethesea。Mr。Thorntonmadethemapofthefirstjourney，atShupanga，frommaterialscollectedwhenwiththeBaron；andwhenthatworkwasaccomplished，followedus。HewasthendirectedtoexaminegeologicallytheCataractdistrict，butnottoexposehimselftocontactwiththeAjawauntilthefeelingsofthattribeshouldbeascertained。

ThemembersofBishopMackenzie\'sparty，onthelossoftheirhead，fellbackfromMagomeroonthehighlands，toChibisa\'s，inthelow-

lyingShireValley；andThornton，findingthemsufferingfromwantofanimalfood，kindlyvolunteeredtogoacrossthencetoTette，andbringasupplyofgoatsandsheep。Wewerenotawareofthisstep，towhichthegenerosityofhisnaturepromptedhim，tilltwodaysafterhehadstarted。InadditiontosecuringsuppliesfortheUniversities\'Mission，hebroughtsomefortheExpedition，andtookbearings，bywhichhehopedtoconnecthisformerworkatTettewiththemountainsintheShiredistrict。Thetoilofthisjourneywastoomuchforhisstrength，aswiththeadditionofgreatscarcityofwater，ithadbeenforthatofDr。KirkandRae，andhereturnedinasadlyhaggardandexhaustedcondition；diarrhoeasupervened，andthatendedindysenteryandfever，whichterminatedfatallyonthe21stofApril，1863。HereceivedtheunremittingattentionsofDr。Kirk，andDr。Meller，surgeonofthe"Pioneer，"duringthefortnightofhisillness；andashehadsufferedverylittlefromfever，oranyotherdisease，inAfrica，wehadentertainedstronghopesthathisyouthandunimpairedconstitutionwouldhavecarriedhimthrough。Duringthenightofthe20thhismindwanderedsomuch，thatwecouldnotascertainhislastwishes；andonthemorningofthe21st，toourgreatsorrow，hedied。Hewasburiedonthe22nd，nearalargetreeontherightbankoftheShire，aboutfivehundredyardsfromthelowestoftheMurchisonCataracts——andclosetoarivulet，atwhichthe"LadyNyassa"and"Pioneer"lay。

NowordscanconveyanadequateideaofthesceneofwidespreaddesolationwhichtheoncepleasantShireValleynowpresented。

Insteadofsmilingvillagesandcrowdsofpeoplecomingwiththingsforsale，scarcelyasoulwastobeseen；and，whenbychanceonelightedonanative，hisframeboretheimpressofhunger，andhiscountenancethelookofacringingbroken-spiritedness。Adroughthadvisitedthelandaftertheslave-huntingpanicsweptoverit。

Haditbeenpossibletoconceivethethoroughdepopulationwhichhadensued，weshouldhaveavoidedcominguptheriver。LargemassesofthepeoplehadfleddowntotheShire，onlyanxioustogettheriverbetweenthemandtheirenemies。Mostofthefoodhadbeenleftbehind；andfamineandstarvationhadcutoffsomany，thattheremainderweretoofewtoburythedead。Thecorpseswesawfloatingdowntheriverwereonlyaremnantofthosethathadperished，whomtheirfriends，fromweakness，couldnotbury，norover-gorgedcrocodilesdevour。Itistruethatfaminecausedagreatportionofthiswasteofhumanlife:buttheslave-trademustbedeemedthechiefagentintheruin，because，aswewereinformed，informerdroughtsallthepeopleflockedfromthehillsdowntothemarshes，whicharecapableofyieldingcropsofmaizeinlessthanthreemonths，atanytimeoftheyear，andnowtheywereafraidtodoso。

Afew，encouragedbytheMissionintheattempttocultivate，hadtheirlittlepatchesrobbedassuccessiveswarmsoffugitivescamefromthehills。Whocanblametheseoutcastsfromhouseandhomeforstealingtosavetheirwretchedlives，orwonderthattheownersprotectedthelittleall，onwhichtheirownlivesdepended，withclubandspear？WewereinformedbyMr。WallerofthedreadfulblightwhichhadbefallentheoncesmilingShireValley。Hiswords，thoughstrong，failedtoimpressuswiththereality。Infact，theywerereceived，assomemayacceptourown，astingedwithexaggeration；butwhenoureyesbeheldthelastmeredribletsofthiscupofwoe，weforthefirsttimefeltthattheenormouswrongsinflictedonourfellow-menbyslavingarebeyondexaggeration。

Whereverwetookawalk，humanskeletonswereseenineverydirection，anditwaspainfullyinterestingtoobservethedifferentposturesinwhichthepoorwretcheshadbreathedtheirlast。Awholeheaphadbeenthrowndownaslopebehindavillage，wherethefugitivesoftencrossedtheriverfromtheeast；andinonehutofthesamevillagenofewerthantwentydrumshadbeencollected，probablytheferryman\'sfees。Manyhadendedtheirmiseryundershadytrees——othersunderprojectingcragsinthehills——whileotherslayintheirhuts，withcloseddoors，whichwhenopeneddisclosedthemoulderingcorpsewiththepoorragsroundtheloins——theskullfallenoffthepillow——thelittleskeletonofthechild，thathadperishedfirst，rolledupinamatbetweentwolargeskeletons。Thesightofthisdesert，buteighteenmonthsagoawellpeopledvalley，nowliterallystrewnwithhumanbones，forcedtheconvictionuponus，thatthedestructionofhumanlifeinthemiddlepassage，howevergreat，constitutesbutasmallportionofthewaste，andmadeusfeelthatunlesstheslave-trade——thatmonsteriniquity，whichhassolongbroodedoverAfrica——isputdown，lawfulcommercecannotbeestablished。

Webelievedthat，ifitwerepossibletogetasteamerupontheLake，wecouldbyhermeansputacheckontheslaversfromtheEastCoast；

andaidmoreeffectuallystillinthesuppressionoftheslave-trade，byintroducing，bywayoftheRovuma，alawfultrafficinivory。Wethereforeunscrewedthe"LadyNyassa"atarivuletaboutfivehundredyardsbelowthefirstcataract，andbegantomakearoadoverthethirty-fiveorfortymilesoflandportage，bywhichtocarryheruppiecemeal。Aftermatureconsideration，wecouldnotimagineamorenobleworkofbenevolence，thanthustointroducelightandlibertyintoaquarterofthisfairearth，whichhumanlusthasconvertedintothenearestpossibleresemblanceofwhatweconceivetheinfernalregionstobe——andwesacrificedmuchofourprivateresourcesasanofferingforthepromotionofsogoodacause。

Thechiefpartofthelabourofroad-makingconsistedincuttingdowntreesandremovingstones。Thecountrybeingcoveredwithopenforest，asmalltreehadtobecutabouteveryfiftyorsixtyyards。

Thelandneartheriverwassoverymuchintersectedbyravines，thatsearchhadtobemade，amilefromitsbanks，formorelevelground。

ExperiencedHottentotdriverswouldhavetakenCapewagonswithoutanyothertroublethanthatofoccasionallycuttingdownatree。Notsetseinfestedthisdistrict，andthecattlebroughtfromJohannaflourishedontheabundantpasture。Thefirsthalf-mileofroadledup，byagradualslope，toanaltitudeoftwohundredfeetabovetheship，andasensibledifferenceofclimatewasfelteventhere。Fortheremainderofthedistancetheheightincreased，——till，attheuppermostcataract，weweremorethan1200feetabovethesea。Thecountryhere，havingrecoveredfromtheeffectsofthedrought，wasbrightwithyounggreenwoodland，andmountainsofthesamerefreshinghue。Buttheabsenceofthecrowds，whichhadattendedusaswecarrieduptheboat，whenthewomenfollowedusformileswithfinemeal，vegetables，andfatfowlsforsale，andtheboyswereeverreadyforalittlejob——andtheoppressivestillnessboreheavilyonourspirits。ThePortugueseofTettehadveryeffectuallyremovedourlabourers。Notanounceoffreshprovisionscouldbeobtained，exceptwhatcouldbeshot，andeventhefoodforournativecrewhadtobebroughtonehundredandfiftymilesfromtheZambesi。

Thedietofsaltprovisionsandpreservedmeatswithoutvegetables，withthedepressionofspiritscausedbyseeinghoweffectuallyafewwretchedconvicts，aidedbytheconnivanceofofficials，ofwhombettermighthavebeenhoped，couldcounteractourbestefforts，andturnintendedgoodtocertainevil，broughtonattacksofdysentery，whichwenttheroundoftheExpedition——and，Dr。KirkandCharlesLivingstonehavingsufferedmostseverely，itwasdeemedadvisablethattheyshouldgohome。Thismeasurewasnecessary，thoughmuchtotheregretofall——forhavingdonesomuch，theywerenaturallyanxioustobepresent，when，bytheestablishingourselvesontheLake，alloureffortsshouldbecrownedwithsuccess。Afterithadbeendecidedthatthesetwoofficers，andallthewhiteswhocouldbespared，shouldbesentdowntotheseaforapassagetoEngland，Dr。

LivingstonewasseizedinMaywithasevereattackofdysentery，whichcontinuedforamonth，andreducedhimtoashadow。Dr。Kirkkindlyremainedinattendancetilltheworstwaspassed。Thepartingtookplaceonthe19thofMay。

Afterafewmilesofroadwerecompleted，andtheoxenbrokenin，weresolvedtotryandrenderourselvesindependentofthesouthforfreshprovisions，bygoinginaboatuptheShire，abovetheCataracts，tothetribesatthefootofLakeNyassa，whowerestilluntouchedbytheAjawainvasion。InfurtheranceofthisplanDr。

LivingstoneandMr。Raedeterminedtowalkuptoexamine，and，ifneedbe，mendtheboatwhichhadbeenlefttwoseasonspreviouslyhunguptothelimbofalargeshadytree，beforeattemptingtocarryanotherpasttheCataracts。The"Pioneer，"whichwastobeleftinchargeofouractiveandmosttrustworthygunner，Mr。EdwardD。

Young，R。N。，wasthoroughlyroofedoverwitheuphorbiabranchesandgrass，soascompletelytoprotectherdecksfromthesun:shealsoreceiveddailyadueamountofman-of-warscrubbingandwashing；and，besideshavingeverythingputinshipshapefashion，waseveryeveningswungoutintothemiddleoftheriver，forthesakeofthegreateramountofairwhichcirculatedthere。Inadditiontotheirdailyroutineworkoftheship，thethreestokers，onesailor，andonecarpenter——nowourcomplement——wereencouragedtohuntforguinea-

fowl，whichinJune，whenthewaterinlandisdriedup，comeinlargeflockstotheriver\'sbanks，androostonthetreesatnight。

Everythingthatcanbedonetokeepmindandbodyemployedtendstopreventfever。

Whilewewereemployedintheseoperations，someofthepoorstarvedpeopleabouthadbeeninthehabitofcrossingtheriver，andreapingtheself-sownmapira，intheoldgardensoftheircountrymen。Intheafternoonofthe9th，acanoecamefloatingdownempty，andshortlyafterawomanwasseenswimmingneartheotherside，whichwasabouttwohundredyardsdistantfromus。Ournativecrewmannedtheboat，andrescuedher；whenbroughtonboard，shewasfoundtohaveanarrow-head，eightortenincheslong，inherback，belowtheribs，andslantingupthroughthediaphragmandleftlung，towardstheheart——shehadbeenshotfrombehindwhenstooping。Airwascomingoutofthewound，and，therebeingbutaninchofthebarbedarrow-

headvisible，itwasthoughtbetternottoruntheriskofherdyingundertheoperationnecessaryforitsremoval；sowecarriedheruptoherownhut。Oneofherrelativeswaslessscrupulous，forhecutoutthearrowandpartofthelung。Mr。Youngsentheroccasionallyportionsofnativecorn，andstrangetosayfoundthatshenotonlybecamewell，butstout。Theconstitutionofthesepeopleseemstohaveawonderfulpowerofself-repair——anditcouldbenoslightprivationwhichhadcutoffthemanythousandsthatwesawdeadaroundus。

Weregrettedthat，inconsequenceofDr。Mellerhavingnowsolemedicalcharge，wecouldnothavehiscompanyinourprojectedtrip；

buthefoundemploymentinbotanyandnaturalhistory，aftertheannualsicklyseasonofMarch，April，andMaywasover；andhisconstantpresencewasnotsomuchrequiredattheship。Laterintheyear，whenhecouldbewellspared，hewentdowntherivertotakeupanappointmenthehadbeenofferedinMadagascar；butunfortunatelywassoseverelytriedbyillnesswhiledetainedatthecoast，thatfornearlytwoyearshewasnotabletoturnhisabilitiesasanaturalisttoaccountbyproceedingtothatisland。Wehavenodoubtbuthewillyetdistinguishhimselfinthatuntroddenfield。

Onthe16thofJunewestartedfortheUpperCataracts，withamule-

cart，ourroadlyingadistanceofamilewestfromtheriver。Wesawmanyofthedeserteddwellingsofthepeoplewhoformerlycametous；andwereverymuchstruckbytheextentoflandundercultivation，thoughthat，comparedwiththewholecountry，isverysmall。Largepatchesofmapiracontinuedtogrow，——asitissaiditdoesfromtherootsforthreeyears。ThemapirawasmixedwithtallbushesoftheCongo-bean，castor-oilplants，andcotton。Thelargestpatchofthiskindwepaced，andfoundittobesixhundredandthirtypacesononeside——therestwerefromoneacretothree，andmanynotmorethanone-thirdofanacre。Thecotton——ofverysuperiorquality——wasnowdroppingoffthebushes，tobelefttorot——

therewasnoonetogatherwhatwouldhavebeenofsomuchvalueinLancashire。Thehuts，inthedifferentvillagesweentered，werestandingquiteperfect。Themortarsforpoundingcorn——thestonesforgrindingit——thewaterandbeerpots——theemptycorn-safesandkitchenutensils，werealluntouched；andmostofthedoorswereshut，asifthestarvingownershadgoneouttowanderinsearchofrootsorfruitsintheforest，andhadneverreturned。Whenopened，severalhutsrevealedaghastlysightofhumanskeletons。Somewereseeninsuchunnaturalpositions，astogivetheideathattheyhadexpiredinafaint，whentryingtoreachsomethingtoallaythegnawingsofhunger。

WetookseveralofthemenasfarastheMukuru-Madseforthesakeofthechangeofairandforoccupation，andalsotosecurefortheshipsasupplyofbuffalomeat——asthoseanimalswerereportedtobeinabundanceonthatstream。Butthoughitwasevidentfromthetracksthatthereportwastrue，itwasimpossibletogetaglimpseofthem。Thegrassbeingtallerthanwewere，andprettythicklyplanted，theyalwaysknewofourapproachbeforewesawthem。Andthefirstintimationwehadoftheirbeingnearwasthesoundtheymadeinrushingoverthestones，breakingthebranches，andknockingtheirhornsagainsteachother。Once，whenseekingafordforthecart，atsunrise，wesawaherdslowlywendingupthehill-sidefromthewater。Sendingforarifle，andstalkingwithintenseeagernessforafatbeefsteak，insteadofourusualfareofsaltedprovisions，wegotsonearthatwecouldhearthebullsutteringtheirhoarsedeeplow，butcouldseenothingexceptthemassofyellowgrassinfront；suddenlythebuffalo-birdssoundedtheiralarm-whistle，andawaydashedthetroop，andwegotsightofneitherbirdsnorbeasts。

Thiswouldbenocountryforasportsmanexceptwhenthegrassisshort。Theanimalsarewary，fromthedreadtheyhaveofthepoisonedarrows。Thoseofthenativeswhodohuntaredeeplyimbuedwiththehuntingspirit，andfollowthegamewithastealthyperseveranceandcunning，quiteextraordinary。Thearrowmakingnonoise，theherdisfollowedupuntilthepoisontakeseffect，andthewoundedanimalfallsout。Itisthenpatientlywatchedtillitdrops——aportionofmeatroundthewoundiscutaway，andalltheresteaten。

Poisonedarrowsaremadeintwopieces。Anironbarbisfirmlyfastenedtooneendofasmallwandofwood，teninchesorafootlong，theotherendofwhich，fineddowntoalongpoint，isnicelyfitted，thoughnototherwisesecured，inthehollowofthereed，whichformsthearrowshaft。Thewoodimmediatelybelowtheironheadissmearedwiththepoison。Whenthearrowisshotintoananimal，thereedeitherfallstothegroundatonce，orisverysoonbrushedoffbythebushes；buttheironbarbandpoisonedupperpartofthewoodremaininthewound。Ifmadeinonepiece，thearrowwouldoftenbetornout，headandall，bythelongshaftcatchingintheunderwood，orstrikingagainsttrees。Thepoisonusedhere，andcalledkombi，isobtainedfromaspeciesofstrophanthus，andisveryvirulent。Dr。Kirkfoundbyanaccidentalexperimentonhimselfthatitactsbyloweringthepulse。Inusinghistooth-brush，whichhadbeeninapocketcontainingalittleofthepoison，henoticedabittertaste，butattributedittohishavingsometimesused，thehandleintakingquinine。Thoughthequantitywassmall，itimmediatelyshoweditspowerbyloweringhispulsewhichatthetimehadbeenraisedbyacold，andnextdayhewasperfectlyrestored。

Notmuchcanbeinferredfromasinglecaseofthiskind，butitispossiblethatthekombimayturnoutavaluableremedy；andasProfessorSharpeyhasconductedaseriesofexperimentswiththissubstance，welookwithinterestfortheresults。Analkaloidhasbeenobtainedfromitsimilartostrychnine。Thereisnodoubtthatallkindsofwildanimalsdiefromtheeffectsofpoisonedarrows，excepttheelephantandhippopotamus。Theamountofpoisonthatthislittleweaponcanconveyintotheirsystemsbeingtoosmalltokillthosehugebeasts，thehuntersresorttothebeamtrapinstead。

AnotherkindofpoisonwasmetwithonLakeNyassa，whichwassaidtobeusedexclusivelyforkillingmen。Itwasputonsmallwoodenarrow-heads，andcarefullyprotectedbyapieceofmaize-leaftiedroundit。Itcausednumbnessofthetonguewhenthesmallestparticlewastasted。TheBushmenofthenorthernpartoftheKalahariwereseenapplyingtheentrailsofasmallcaterpillarwhichtheytermed\'Ngatotheirarrows。Thisvenomwasdeclaredtobesopowerfulinproducingdelirium，thatamanindyingreturnedinimaginationtoastateofinfancy，andwouldcallforhismother\'sbreast。Lionswhenshotwithitaresaidtoperishinagonies。Thepoisonousingredientinthiscasemaybederivedfromtheplantonwhichthecaterpillarfeeds。Itisdifficulttoconceivebywhatsortofexperimentsthepropertiesofthesepoisons，knownforgenerations，wereproved。Probablytheanimalinstincts，whichhavebecomesoobtusebycivilization，thatchildreninEnglandeattheberriesofthedeadlynightshade(Atropabelladonna)withoutsuspicion，wereintheearlyuncivilizedstatemuchmorekeen。Insomepointsinstinctisstillretainedamongsavages。ItisrelatedthatinthecelebratedvoyageoftheFrenchnavigator，Bougainville，ayounglady，whohadassumedthemaleattire，performedalltheharddutiesincidenttothecallingofacommonsailor；and，evenasservanttothegeologist，carriedabagofstonesandspecimensoverhillsanddaleswithoutacomplaint，andwithouthavinghersexsuspectedbyherassociates；butonlandingamongthesavagesofoneoftheSouthSeaIslands，shewasinstantlyrecognizedasafemale。

Theybegantoshowtheirimpressionsinawaythatcompelledhertoconfesshersex，andthrowherselfontheprotectionofthecommander，whichofcoursewasgranted。Inlikemanner，theearlierportionsofthehumanfamilymayhavehadtheirinstinctsastoplantsmorehighlydevelopedthananyoftheirdescendants——ifindeedmuchmoreknowledgethanweusuallysupposebenottheeffectofdirectrevelationfromabove。

TheMukuru-Madsehasadeeprockybed。Thewaterisgenerallyaboutfourfeetdeep，andfifteenortwentyyardsbroad。Beforereachingit，wepassedfiveorsixgullies；butbeyonditthecountry，fortwoorthreemilesfromtheriver，wascomparativelysmooth。Thelonggrasswasoverrunningallthenativepaths，andonespecies(sanu)，whichhasasharpbarbedseedaquarterofaninchinlength，enterseveryporeofwoollenclothingandhighlyirritatestheskin。Fromitshard，sharppointaseriesofminutebarbsarelaidback，andgivetheseedaholdwhereveritenters:theslightesttouchgivesitanenteringmotion，andthelittlehookspreventitsworkingout。

Theseseedsaresoabundantinsomespots，thattheinsideofthestockingbecomesworsethantheroughesthairshirt。Itis，however，anexcellentself-sower，andfinefodder；itrisestotheheightofcommonmeadow-grassinEngland，andwouldbeacapitalplantforspreadingoveranewcountrynotsoabundantlysuppliedwithgrassesasthisis。