第22章

ThepartwesleptatoppositeMvaiwasnamedPaudio，andwasevidentlyacontinuationofthedistrictofoneofourstationsontheShire，atwhichobservationsforlatitudewereformerlytaken。

LeavingPaudio，wehadKirk\'sRangecloseonourleftandatleast3000feetaboveus，andprobablynotlessthan5000feetabovethesea。Fartoourrightextendedalonggreenwoodedcountryrisinggraduallyuptoaridge，ornamentedwithseveraldetachedmountains，whichboundedtheShireValley。Infront，northwards，layavalleyasrichandlovelyasweeversawanywhere，terminatingatthemountains，which，stretchedawaysomethirtymilesbeyondourrangeofvisionandendedatCapeMaclear。Thegroupsoftreeshadneverbeensubjectedtothelandscapegardener\'sart；buthadbeencutdownmercilessly，justassuitedtheconvenienceofthecultivator；yetthevariouscombinationsofopenforest，slopingwoodland，grassylawns，andmassiveclumpsofdarkgreenfoliagealongtherunningstreams，formedasbeautifulalandscapeascouldbeseenontheThames。ThisvalleyisnamedGoaorGova，andaswemovedthroughitwefoundthatwhatwassmoothtotheeyewasverymuchfurrowedbyrunningstreamswindingroundinnumerableknolls。Theselittlebrookletscamedownfromtherangeonourleft，andthewaterwasdeliciouslycool。

WhenwecameabreastofthepeakChirobve，thepeoplewouldnolongergiveusguides。Theywereafraidoftheirenemies，whosedwellingswenowhadonoureast；and，proceedingwithoutanyonetoleadus，ortointroduceustotheinhabitants，wewereperplexedbyallthepathsrunningzigzagacrossinsteadofalongthevalley。Theyhadbeenmadebythevillagersgoingfromthehamletsontheslopestotheirgardensinthemeadowsbelow。Toaddtoourdifficulties

therivuletsandmountain-torrentshadworngulliessomethirtyorfortyfeetdeep，withsteepsidesthatcouldnotbeclimbedexceptatcertainpoints。Theremaininginhabitantsontheflankoftherangewhentheysawstrangerswindingfromsidetoside，andoftenattemptingtocrossthesetorrentbedsatimpossibleplaces，screamedouttheirshrillwar-alarm，andmadethevalleyringwiththeirwildoutcries。Itwaswar，andwaralone，andweweretoodeepdowninthevalleytomakeourvoicesheardinexplanation。Fortunately，theyhadburnedoffthelonggrasstoagreatextent。Itonlyhereandtherehidthemfromus。Selectinganopenspot，wespentanightregardedbyallaroundusasslave-hunters，butwereundisturbed，thoughtheusualwayoftreatinganenemyinthispartofthecountryisbynightattack。

Thenightsatthealtitudeofthevalleywerecool，thelowesttemperatureshownbeing37degrees；at9a。m。and9p。m。itwas58

degrees，abouttheaveragetemperatureoftheday；atmid-day82

degrees，andsunset70degrees。Ourmarchwasverymuchhinderedbytheimperfectlyburnedcornandgrassstalkshavingfallenacrossthepaths。ToareaderinEnglandthiswillseemaverysmallobstacle。

Buthemustfancythegrassstemsasthickashislittlefinger，andthecorn-stalkslikesomanywalkingstickslyinginonedirection，andsosupportingeachotherthatonehastolifthisfeetupaswhenwadingthroughdeephighheather。Thestemsofgrassshowedthecausesofcertainexplosionsasloudaspistols，whichareheardwhentheannualfirescomeroaringovertheland。Theheatedairinsideexpandingburststhestalkwithaloudreport，andstrewsthefragmentsontheground。

Averygreatdealofnativecornhadbeencultivatedhere，andwesawbuffaloesfeedinginthedesertedgardens，andsomewomen，whoranawayverymuchfasterthanthebeastsdid。

Onthe29th，seeingsomepeoplestandingunderatreebyavillage，wesatdown，andsentMasego，oneofourparty，tocommunicate。Theheadman，Matunda，camebackwithhim，bearingacalabashwithwaterforus。HesaidthatallthepeoplehadfledfromtheAjawa，whohadonlyjustdesistedfromtheircareerofpillageonbeingpaidfivepersonsasafineforsomeoffenceforwhichtheyhadcommencedtheinvasion。Matundahadplentyofgraintosell，andallthewomenweresoonatworkgrindingitintomeal。Wesecuredanabundantsupply，andfourmilkgoats。TheManganjagoatisofaverysuperiorbreedtothegeneralAfricananimal，beingshortinthelegsandhavingafinely-shapedbroadbody。BypromisingtheMakololothat，whenwenolongerneededthemilk，theyshouldhavethegoatstoimprovethebreedoftheirownathome，theywereinducedtotakethegreatestpossiblecareofbothgoatsandkidsindrivingandpasturing。

AfterleavingMatunda，wecametotheendofthehighlandvalley；

and，beforedescendingasteepdeclivityofathousandfeettowardsthepartwhichmaybecalledtheheeloftheLake，wehadtheboldmountainsofCapeMaclearonourright，withthebluewaterattheirbase，thehillsofTsengainthedistanceinfront，andKirk\'sRangeonourleft，stretchingawaynorthwards，andapparentlybecominglower。Aswecamedownintoafinerichundulatingvalley，manyperennialstreamsrunningtotheeastfromthehillsonourleftwerecrossed，whileallthosebehindusonthehighergroundseemedtouniteinonenamedLekue，whichflowedintotheLake。

Afteralongday\'smarchinthevalleyoftheLake，wherethetemperaturewasverymuchhigherthaninthatwehadjustleft，weenteredthevillageofKatosa，whichissituatedonthebankofastreamamonggigantictimbertrees，andfoundtherealargepartyofAjawa——Waiau，theycalledthemselves——allarmedwithmuskets。Wesatdownamongthem，andweresooncalledtothechiefscourt，andpresentedwithanamplemessofporridge，buffalomeat，andbeer。

KatosawasmorefrankthananyManganjachiefwehadmet，andcomplimentedusbysayingthat"wemustbehis\'Bazimo\'(goodspiritsofhisancestors)；forwhenhelivedatPamalombe，welighteduponhimfromabove——menthelikeofwhomhehadneverseenbefore，andcomingheknewnotwhence。”Hegaveusoneofhisownlargeandcleanhutstosleepin；andwemaytakethisopportunityofsayingthattheimpressionwereceived，fromourfirstjourneyonthehillsamongthevillagesofChisunse，oftheexcessivedirtinessoftheManganja，waserroneous。Thistraitwasconfinedtothecoolhighlands。Herecrowdsofmenandwomenwereobservedtoperformtheirablutionsdailyinthestreamthatranpasttheirvillages；andthiswehaveobservedelsewheretobeacommoncustomwithbothManganjaandAjawa。

Beforewestartedonthemorningofthe1stSeptember，Katosasentanenormouscalabashofbeer，containingatleastthreegallons，andthencameandwishedusto"stopadayandeatwithhim。”Onexplainingtohimthereasonsforourhaste，hesaidthathewasinthewaybywhichtravellersusuallypassed，heneverstoppedthemintheirjourneys，butwouldliketolookatusforaday。Onourpromisingtorestalittlewithhimonourreturn，hegaveusabouttwopecksofrice，andthreeguidestoconductustoasubordinatefemalechief，Nkwinda，livingonthebordersoftheLakeinfront。

TheAjawa，fromhavingtakenslavesdowntoQuillimaneandMosambique，knewmoreofusthanKatosadid。Theirmusketswerecarefullypolished，andneveroutoftheseslaver\'shandsforamoment，thoughinthechiefspresence。WenaturallyfeltapprehensivethatweshouldneverseeKatosaagain。AmigratoryafflatusseemstohavecomeovertheAjawatribes。Warsamongthemselves，forthesupplyoftheCoastslave-trade，aresaidtohavefirstsettheminmotion。TheusualwayinwhichtheyhaveadvancedamongtheManganjahasbeenbyslave-tradinginafriendlyway。

Then，professingtowishtoliveassubjects，theyhavebeenwelcomedasguests，andtheManganja，beinggreatagriculturists，havebeenabletosupportconsiderablebodiesofthesevisitorsforatime。

Whentheprovisionsbecamescarce，theguestsbegantostealfromthefields；quarrelsaroseinconsequence，and，theAjawahavingfirearms，theirhostsgottheworstofit，andwereexpelledfromvillageaftervillage，andoutoftheirowncountry。TheManganjawerequiteasbadinregardtoslave-tradingastheAjawa，buthadlessenterprise，andweremuchmorefondofthehomepursuitsofspinning，weaving，smeltingiron，andcultivatingthesoil，thanofforeigntravel。TheAjawahadlittleofamechanicalturn，andnotmuchloveforagriculture，butwereverykeentradersandtravellers。

Thispartyseemedtoustobeinthef

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