A Popular Account

第23章

Fromboyhoodupwardswehavebeenaccustomed,fromtimetotime,toreadinbooksoftravelsaboutthegreatadvancesannuallymadebyMohammedanisminAfrica。Therateatwhichthisreligionspreadswassaidtobesorapid,thatinafterdays,inourownprettyextensivetravels,wehaveconstantlybeenonthelookoutfortheadvancingwavefromNorthtoSouth,which,itwasprophesied,wouldsoonreducetheentirecontinenttothefaithofthefalseprophet。Theonlyfoundationthatwecandiscoverfortheassertionsreferredto,andforothersofmorerecentdate,isthefactthatinaremotecornerofNorth-WesternAfricatheFulahs,andMandingoes,andsomeothersinNorthernAfrica,asmentionedbyDr。Barth,havemadeconquestsofterritory;buteventheycaresoverylittlefortheextensionoftheirfaith,thataftertheconquestnopainswhateveraretakentoindoctrinatetheadultsofthetribe。ThisisinexactaccordancewiththeimpressionwehavereceivedfromourintercoursewithMohammedansandChristians。ThefollowersofChristaloneareanxioustopropagatetheirfaith。AquasiphilanthropistwouldcertainlyneverneedtorecommendthefollowersofIslam,whomwehavemet,torestraintheirbenevolencebypreachingthat"Charityshouldbeginathome。”

ThoughSeleleandhiscompanionswereboundtotheirmastersbydomesticties,theonlynewideatheyhadimbibedfromMohammedanismwas,thatitwouldbewrongtoeatmeatkilledbyotherpeople。Theythoughtitwouldbe"unlucky。”JustastheinhabitantsofKolobeng,beforebeingtaughttherequirementsofChristianity,refrainedfromhoeingtheirgardensonSundays,lesttheyshouldreapanunluckycrop。Sofaraswecouldlearn,noeffortshadbeenmadetoconvertthenatives,thoughthesetwoArabs,andaboutadozenhalf-castes,hadbeeninthecountryformanyyears;andjudgingfromourexperiencewithadozenMohammedansinouremployathighwagesforsixteenmonths,theAfricanswouldbethebettermeninproportionastheyretainedtheirnativefaith。ThismayappearonlyaharshjudgmentfromamindimbuedwithChristianprejudices;butwithoutanypretentiontothatimpartiality,whichleavesitdoubtfultowhichsidetheaffectionslean,thetruthmaybefairlystatedbyonewhoviewedallMohammedansandAfricanswiththesincerestgoodwill。

OurtwelveMohammedansfromJohannaweretheleastopenofanyofourpartytoimpressionfromkindness。Amarkeddifferenceingeneralconductwasapparent。TheMakololo,andothernativesofthecountry,whomwehadwithus,invariablysharedwitheachotherthefoodtheyhadcooked,buttheJohannamenpartookoftheirmealsatadistance。This,atfirst,weattributedtotheirMoslemprejudices;

butwhentheysawthecookingprocessoftheothersnearlycomplete,theycame,satbesidethem,andatetheportionofferedwithouteverrememberingtoreturnthecomplimentwhentheirownturncametobegenerous。TheMakololoandtheothersgrumbledattheirgreediness,yetalwaysfollowedthecommoncustomofAfricansofsharingtheirfoodwithallwhositaroundthem。WhatvexedusmostintheJohannamenwastheirindifferencetothewelfareofeachother。Once,whentheywereallcomingtotheshipaftersleepingashore,oneofthemwalkedintothewaterwiththeintentionofswimmingofftotheboat,andwhileyethardlyuptohiskneeswasseizedbyahorridcrocodileanddraggedunder;thepoorfellowgaveashriek,andhelduphishandforaid,butnoneofhiscountrymenstirredtohisassistance,andhewasneverseenagain。Onaskinghisbrother-in-lawwhyhedidnothelphim,hereplied,"Well,noonetoldhimtogointothewater。Itwashisownfaultthathewaskilled。”TheMakololoontheotherhandrescuedawomanatSennabyenteringthewater,andtakingheroutofthecrocodile\'smouth。

Itisnotassumedthattheirreligionhadmuchtodointhematter。

ManyMohammedansmightcontrastfavourablywithindifferentChristians;but,sofarasourexperienceinEastAfricagoes,themoraltoneofthefollowerofMahomedispitchedatalowerkeythanthatoftheuntutoredAfrican。TheancientzealforpropagatingthetenetsoftheKoranhasevaporated,andbeenreplacedbythemostintenseselfishnessandgrossestsensuality。TheonlyknowneffortsmadebyMohammedans,namely,thoseintheNorth-WestandNorthofthecontinent,aresolinkedwiththeacquisitionofpowerandplunder,asnottodeservethenameofreligiouspropagandism;andtheonlyreligionthatnowmakesproselytesisthatofJesusChrist。Tothosewhoarecapableoftakingacomprehensiveviewofthissubject,nothingcanbeadducedofmoretellingsignificancethanthewell-

attestedfact,thatwhiletheMohammedans,Fulahs,andotherstowardsCentralAfrica,makeafewproselytesbyaprocesswhichgratifiestheirowncovetousness,threesmallsectionsoftheChristianconverts,theAfricansintheSouth,intheWestIndies,andontheWestCoastofAfricaactuallycontributeforthesupportandspreadoftheirreligionupwardsof15,000poundsannually。{7}ThatreligionwhichsofarovercomestheselfishnessofthehumanheartmustbeDivine。

LeavingKota-kotaBay,weturnedawaydueWestonthegreatslaveroutetoKatanga\'sandCazembe\'scountryinLonda。Jumalentushisservant,Selele,toleadusthefirstday\'smarch。HesaidthatthetradersfromKilwaandIboecrosstheLakeeitheratthisbay,oratTsenga,oratthesouthernendoftheLake;andthatwherevertheymaycrosstheyallgobythispathtotheinterior。Theyhaveslaveswiththemtocarrytheirgoods,andwhentheyreachaspotwheretheycaneasilybuyothers,theysettledownandbeginthetraffic,andatoncecultivategrain。Somuchofthelandlieswaste,thatnoobjectionisevermadetoanyonetakingpossessionofasmuchasheneeds;theycanpurchaseafieldofcassavafortheirpresentwantsforverylittle,andtheycontinuetradinginthecountryfortwoorthreeyears,andgivingwhatweighttheirmusketspossesstothechiefwhoismostliberaltothem。

Thefirstday\'smarchledusoverarich,well-cultivatedplain。

Thiswassucceededbyhighlands,undulating,stony,andcoveredwithscraggytrees。Manybanksofwellroundedshingleappear。Thedisintegrationoftherocks,nowgoingon,doesnotroundofftheangles;theyaresplitupbytheheatandcoldintoangularfragments。OnthesehighdownswecrossedtheRiverKaombe。Beyonditwecameamongtheuplandvegetation——rhododendrons,proteas,themasuko,andmolompi。Atthefootofthehill,Kasuko-suko,wefoundtheRiverBuarunningnorthtojointheKaombe。Wehadtogoamileoutofourwayforaford;thestreamisdeepenoughinpartsforhippopotami。Thevariousstreamsnotpreviouslynoticed,crossedinthisjourney,hadbeforethisledustotheconclusion,independentlyofthetestimonyofthenatives,thatnolargeriverranintothenorthendoftheLake。NosuchaffluentwasneededtoaccountfortheShire\'sperennialflow。

OnSeptember15thwereachedthetopoftheascentwhich,fromitsmanyupsanddowns,hadoftenmadeuspuffandblowasifbroken-

winded。Thewaterofthestreamswecrossedwasdeliciouslycold,andnowthatwehadgainedthesummitatNdonda,wheretheboiling-

pointofwatershowedanaltitudeof3440feetabovethesea,theairwasdelightful。LookingbackwehadamagnificentviewoftheLake,butthehazepreventedourseeingbeyondtheseahorizon。Thescenewasbeautiful,butitwasimpossibletodissociatethelovelylandscapewhosehillsanddaleshadsosorelytriedourlegsandlungs,fromthesadfactthatthiswaspartofthegreatslaveroutenowactuallyinuse。Bythisroadmany"Tenthousands"havehereseen"theSea,""theSea,"butwithsinkinghearts;fortheuniversalideaamongthecaptivegangsis,thattheyaregoingtobefattenedandeatenbythewhites。Theycannotofcoursebesomuchshockedasweshouldbe——theirsensibilitiesarefarfromfine,theirfeelingsaremoreobtusethanours——infact,"theliveeelsareusedtobeingskinned,"perhapstheyratherlikeit。Wewhoarenotphilosophic,blessedtheProvidencewhichatThermopylaeinancientdaysrolledbackthetideofEasternconquestfromtheWest,andsoguidedthecourseofeventsthatlightandlibertyandgospeltruthspreadtoourdistantisle,andemancipatingourracefreedthemfromthefearofeveragainhavingtoclimbfatiguingheightsanddescendwearisomehollowsinaslave-gang,aswesupposetheydidwhenthefairEnglishyouthswereexposedforsaleatRome。

Lookingwestwardsweperceivedthat,whatfrombelowhadtheappearanceofmountains,wasonlytheedgeofatable-landwhich,thoughatfirstundulating,soonbecamesmooth,andslopedtowardsthecentreofthecountry。TothesouthaprominentmountaincalledChipata,andtothesouth-westanothernamedNgalla,bywhichtheBuaissaidtorise,gavecharactertothelandscape。Inthenorth,massesofhillspreventedourseeingmorethaneightortenmiles。

TheairwhichwassoexhilaratingtoEuropeanshadanoppositeeffectonfivemenwhohadbeenbornandrearedinthemalariaoftheDeltaoftheZambesi。NosoonerdidtheyreachtheedgeoftheplateauatNdonda,thantheyla

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